Argentina

We listened to everyones recomendations to come for El Chalten from Calafate. Unsure of what else to do we got a bus north to the small quiet town to do some form of hiking or in our terms, a stroll!! Once again we arrived in wind and rain. So much for following the sun!

We eventually found a hostel with 2 beds (extremely small room not big enough to swing a cat with a small set of bunk beds! Rob bad luck was on top!) after a couple of hours of searching.

Forgetting that El Chalten did not even have one bank or ATM and the money we had on us was not that much, we needed to find somewhere very cheap to stay. The next morning we got up early, made a picnic and headed off for a long days walk to Lago Los Tres just beyond Fitz Roy.

This must have been the best walk we have done. We past through some amazing terrain and the views were spectacular. After a 3 hour walk with Fitz Roy mountain looking over us and passing by a couple of glaciers, we reached the start of the very steep climb to the top of a mountain to reach the lagoons.

The views at the top was worth every minute, every step, every slip and every skipped heart beat as Rob once again nearly goes flying down the hill (that damn weak left ankle!!!! Whatever! more like two left feet! he he). This was the first time we had any snow during our travels so Rob decided a snow ball in my face would be good. Bad luck as it hit the old lady behind me! Yes the poor woman recieved the blow rather than me. Classic!

First lagoon we reached was half frozen. We had been informed that a couple of days before we arrived the weather had been terrible and freezing cold. Good for us as it made the photograph fab!

After another short climb over the second hill we reached another lagoon. The lagoon was a deep blue colour in contrast to the snow covered mouantins behind. Once again a picture doesn´t quiet give the view you have when your there.

A quick snack of the usual choclate and a few cheese sarnies we headed back down the mouantain and started the 4 hour walk back!

Once we reached the bottom we counted out the pennies and just about had enough for two large pepper cover steaks (Rob in heaven again!).

With no money left we were up extremely early to catch a bus to Puerto Madryn to see some whales - hopefully.

We forgot to mention that on the first night we had bumped into some of the cast of ´Shameless´in a cafe, Fiona Gallagher and Steve, who seemed to be a couple. They had commented on my submarino hot chocolate, but Emily was still unaware of who they were until I told her after they had left!!!

Alter a long flight from Lima we arrived in Calafate airport! The first thing we noticed was the gale force winds and the lovely fresh air! On the way to the town you drive along a massive blue lagoon which the town is next too. The town itself is lovely, quite compact and based along one street with loads of cool little shops and restaurants, oh and chocolate shops selling flakes the size of my hand!

We booked ourselves into a hostel, and headed straight for a steak house as we had missed the Argentinian meat. We were not disappointed, but as well as steak we had some amazing lamb…………I LOVE ARGENTINA AND MEAT! Once again Em felt too full and we had to order something sweet! Oh my mistake she made me order something sweet!

The next day we went for a walk and picnic along the lagoon, which was made slightly difficult by the gale force winds, but hey it was sunny!!! We then headed into town to find out prices of a hire car…mmm I wonder if you can rent Corrado´s here! We had heard it was cheaper to hire a car for the day rather than jump on a tour to see Calafate´s main attraction – the ´Perito Moreno Glacier´. So we booked our car for the following day, a VW Gol, which is a cross between a Golf and a Corrado, but with no build quality!!!! But hey I was going to drive again…just on the wrong side!!!

Peurto Morino Glacier

This was a good hours drive from Calafate, and were really looking forward to seeing it.
We were not disappointed, as we rounded a bend it came into view, it was massive!

We had decided that instead of driving to the typical view point in front of the glacier, we would park the car on the other side and walk around to the glacier, and therefore get a different view and have a nice walk!

As we neared the Glacier the sheer scale of it was impressive and not easily conveyed through pictures. What we didn´t expect was the noise from the glacier, the constant cracking and creeking coming from it was amazing (it moves forward 2metres a day!). We hoped we would see a piece fall off into the lake, and we were lucky as a huge slice sheered of into the lake, producing a large wave which crashed into the shore!

We had never seen a glacier before, but we were both totally in awe of it, and could have spent hours just watching and listening.

After a bit of late lunch we headed back to Calafate as the weather closed in, but with the feeling that we had seen one of our favourite sites so far on this trip!

I think we are both going to love Patagonia!

The following day we headed north for El Chalten.

After a couple of days in iguazu we headed for Salta, north west Argentina. Due to a faulty air con system on the bus we spent 2 hours of the jouney to salta in a bus garage. During this time we met a Dutch couple and two English lads.

Salta was a nice change from Iguazu, friendly people, beautifull churches and parks, and most of all we all found a clean comfy hostel, Hostal La Linda (meaning pretty). That night the owners took us to an amazing local steak house (and there was us thinking the steak we had in BA was big!!). The meal and wine cost us less than a ´super size bigmac meal´ in the UK. Rob loves Argentina!

We decided to get off our fat lazy bottoms and work off some of that beer and steak. All 6 of us rented bikes and headed for ´the best mountin bike ride in South America´.

We were told not to forget our suncream and a hat, not one word was said about taking a jumper! Following an early rise at 6am and a rather long bumpy ride in a dodgy bus we arrived at the top of the mountain range in the clouds (over 3400m above sea level). We now realised that our suncream and hat was not needed and our shorts and tshirts were extremely inadequate! With visibility of 3 meters and temperatures at zero we headed as fast a possible down the mountain range.

This was our first experience of the effects of altitude and lack of oxygen! The ride was mostly downhill but even the slightest of uphills would see us out of breath (ok so it could be down to all the steaks and being unfit, but we prefer to blame the altitude!) A couple of hours later and after a number of moans and frozen toilet stops we reached below the cloud level.

The temperature rose and at last we could appreciate the amazing scenery and begin to understand why this ride was rated so highly. Around every bend there was picture, with amazing mountain ranges and colours! The ride should have taken 6-7hrs, but after a half hour stop for a puncture on one of the english lad bikes, disaster struck my bike(rob). After some riding in a stream the inner tube and tyre went pop!!! We tried a bodge repair but the tyre was knackered, so the rest of the ride was done very slowly. We got back to Salta late that night after an incident filled amazing bike ride! Beer all around.

Only a few days spent in BA and we wanted to get out of the big city and see some senerey so we headed for iguazu fasll. Well following an 18hr luxurious coach ride with complimentary blankets, pillows, food and even champagne we arrived in Iguazu falls.....and so did the rain!

We booked into a hostal and checked out the town which took all of 3 minutes! The town itself was not that pleasant but we were here to see the falls. The next day we were up early and took a bus to falls. We paid over twice the price as the argentinians but still it was definalty worth the total of 6 pounds! The park was huge with many walking and trekking routes to see all the the falls. We headed straight for the most spectacular fall, ´Devils Throat´! We can not explain the feeling we had when walking to the falls and hearing the thundering crashing of the water and not being able to see it - goose pimples doesn´t even get close.

Eventually we arrived at the edge of the falls, AWESOME! The sheer size and power was overwhelming. For the rest of the day we walked over the many bridges, through dense forest and explored all the fals the argentinian side offered.

Ok its been a while, so we are writing this in Bolivia!

On our second day in Beunos Aires, we strolled around the city and checked out the japanese garden!! At last we had some sunshine! We looked around their Palemo Soho district which was just like Soho in the London, amazing shops and local markets. I (Emily) bought some sunglasses (well i resisted for so long to not buy anything and eventually I caved in), everything is so cheap here!

That night we checked out one of the famous steak restaurants and oh my god what a steak! This was proably the most expensie dinner we had but i was worth every penny.

BA is a very european city. Many friendly faces,loads of travellers and SO CHEAP! We will be definately coming back if only to take advantage of the shopping.

The following day, under strict instructions from my brother, we managed to get tickets to go see La Boca juniors play! What an experience! After a pizza and beer with the rest of the group we headed for the match with the masses of supports in their blues and yellow shirts. It was a huge event. The stadium a massive concrete block, not sure safety crossed their minds when building the stadium!

The match was fantastic, a little intimidating at times but i think they have the best football chants ever, there were no supporters for the other team (hmmmm not surprised), and best of all they won 2-1!! Liverpool and Man U would stand no chance!!